Final two days in Spain, Summer 2023. With No. 4. Lanjarón was the plan, but how? Some rally car event made the gateway to the Alpujarras inaccessible. When we asked a police officer what to do, she gave us an earful of Spanish and an armful of sign language which, combined, translated to something like, … More Lanjarón
A love story from Andalucía (adapted from Lorenzo Valla’s 15th century version of the Legend of La Peña de los Enamorados). A young man once served as a slave in the house of a Moorish leader in the Kingdom of Granada. The man’s name was Tello, and he was a Christian soldier who had been … More Tello y Tazgona
I didn’t think I was writing a love story. I didn’t think I was writing a sad story. Nor one with uncomfortable truths. I thought I was writing a story set in a sunny Spanish Sierra, and I started with someone similar to Elena, the Tortilla Maker. A story intended to be life-affirming and light, … More A Love Story
I don’t expect Israel to notice me. But his head turns my way while I am taking his picture, and he stops. Smiling all the way from across the empty road, he leans with nonchalance against his tractor and readjusts his straw hat, happy to strike a pose. Then he beckons – come, cross the … More Israel and his Peaches
A pavement walk to a soulless gym on a cloud-hung day. Even the temperature is mediocre – it’s neither this nor that. Just okay. A conveyor belt of cars slides by. Some drivers bear that far-off, dreamy look so familiar to us all, suggesting that they are relieving the boredom of the road by seeking somewhere quite … More Soulless in Sevenoaks
I want to do what Elena did in her pink frying pan. Tortilla de Patatas. I try to follow her hand-written recipe to the letter, but her careful Spanish script gives directions so succinct they seem too simple for something that tastes of sunshine and salt and melting-soft potatoes. It is a quintessentially Spanish tapa. I dig … More Tortilla de Patatas
There’s more to Elena than meets the eye. On the face of it, she is a modest, middle-aged woman who runs an unassuming grocery store in an Andalucían white village (she lives and works opposite Ana Luna). Elena is always there, behind the counter, with her apron on and hair tied back. She knows everyone, … More Elena the grocer, baker and tortilla maker.
In Spain, taking a coffee can be an enlightening half-hour. Especially if you’re going through a rough patch. “Confía en el tiempo, que suele dar dulces salidas a muchas amargas dificultades.” (Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra) “Trust in time; it usually gives sweet endings to many bitter challenges” Usually. Thanks, Miguel. Words of wisdom from the great … More Sugar Quotes
I’m running with a dog which isn’t mine, but somehow she seems connected. She slows when I slow; she speeds up when I do; when I turn my face to get the measure of her, she shifts hers to match. Dogs scare me. Ever since a German Shepherd chased me with fierce blue eyes and … More Heartskipping run with a dog
This is Ana Luna. Her character is as warm as the bread she bakes, and her heart is as full as the moon will be tonight (27th July). She sells her pan from behind a small counter at number 37, but photos of her bakery at the back are offered for free. Ana lives two doors … More Ana Luna
Have Paprika, Will Travel 