Crikey, today we go. Time to make a plan. Three nights in Berlin with two (too cool for school) 15 year old boys (men?) and my brother. There is much ground to cover – Berlin is a big city (population 3.5m) with a complicated, turbulent history (not just 20th century), and a 21st century reputation for creativity and innovation. David Bowie … More Bis gleich, Berlin
By the time we reach the River Thames, No. 2 has taught me everything I need (or want) to know about sharks (we’ve been travelling for just 35 minutes). A chill wind whips up, so I tug my scarf tighter. My son stands at the river’s edge, moving breezily on to the subject of the seals which (apparently) splash in the murky dark depths below us. So start … More 24 hours in London – chat, clues and comedy
Today No. 4 met me from school with a spring in his step and a “How are you, Mum?” “Fine, thanks.” I smiled. His thoughtful theme continued, “Did you have a good day?” “It’s getting better … ” I laughed. My boy’s line of questioning is a rare and wonderful thing, especially in these latter days of winter. … More A Spring in his Step
It’s Friday, and I run through a cloudy-grey Knole Park feeling sluggish. So I cheer myself along by composing a ridiculous poem about the stye in my left eye. Never to be reproduced outside my head, the “poem” struggles to rhyme spectacles with anything, but succeeds in carrying me to a fine cup of coffee. (By the way: for … More Sevilla’s Greener Grass
Cons: it can be noisy, and causes occasional cries of outrage. Pros: it’s super simple – a global travelling adventure from the comfort of your own home (or office). Born from yet another session of me scolding my kids for being addicted to their screens, they outwitted me by devising a game of which I would approve. The Rules Two … More The Google Maps Game
It’s not all about paella in Valencia – arroz (rice) can be rustled up a hundred different ways. And Paella Valenciana will be adapted to suit the season and region – and the kitchen. But we eat none of it, much to our surprise. Because we stop at these places instead: Bodega Casa Montaña (for classic tapas) Ubik Café (for some down-time) Horchatería de … More No Paella in Valencia
It’s a good feeling when you stumble upon a travel gem without even trying. Café Sant Jaume is our small find in the old quarter of El Carmen in Valencia – only later do I read of its enviable reputation as one of the city’s best bars. On the café terrace in the late winter evening, people sip cocktails, cervezas and … More Café Sant Jaume
The Russafa district of Valencia is said to be the place to be. Café tables straddle the sunny streets, and artisan bakeries throw out sweet fumes – the barrio breathes a laid-back, bohemian air. Russafa (Ruzafa in Spanish) has evolved from a working class barrio – settled by a largely Muslim population in the second half of … More Russafa and the Ubik Café
Bodega Casa Montaña has achieved legendary status in legion guides and little black books. Many proclaim it to be Valencia’s top tapas bar, and it’s certainly one of the oldest. It opened its doors as a grocery store in 1836, establishing itself by selling wine and oil to merchant ships moored in the nearby port. The bodega’s reputation for keeping an excellent and extensive wine cellar endures today. And the food is … More Bodega Casa Montaña
Horchata de chufa or Orxata (in Valencian) is an unmissable ice-cold treat in Valencia. Cafés that specialise in serving it (Horchaterías) are everywhere, but we head straight for one of the oldest and best-known in town, the Horchatería de Santa Catalina. It’s bustling, and prettily-tiled in traditional style. Eventually we bag a seat, and order the sugary beverage that stems … More Horchatería de Santa Catalina
Have Paprika, Will Travel 